Bonsai starter kit, Ref.6102
Description:
The Bonsai growing Starter Kit introduces the most essential items that allow you to take your first steps in the world of plants, see how life springs from a tiny seed and learn a lot about nature.
The kit includes:
1. Container (plastic) 1 pcs.
2. Mesh for drainage holes in the container 1 pcs.
3. Gift box 1 pcs.
4. peat cups 4 pcs.
5. 30 ml container with a sprayer for moisturizing 1 pcs.
6. Wipes for germinating seeds 1 set.
7. Wire for forming bends (aluminum) 1 m
8 - 13. Soils, substrates, soil (1 x 500 ml)
2912. Akadama
2913. Kiryuzuna
2917. Lava
2928. Coconut substrate
2930. Sphagnum
2933. Organic soil (black soil)
14. Fertilizer 1 pcs.
15. Tweezers for small works 1 pcs.
16. Seeds 1 psc.
17. Fertilizer baskets 2 pcss.
18. Litmus strips for pH determination 1 comp.
19. Glass cup with a lid for working with seeds 1 pcs.
20. Tags for plant labeling 4 pcs.
Description
1. Plastic container for growing young bonsai. It has drainage holes. The volume of the container is optimal for the development of the root system of the plant.
2. Mesh for the drainage holes in the container prevents the soil from washing out when watering. When using a drainage material with large granules, the mesh can be removed.
3. A set designed as a gift is a great idea. Perhaps it will become a hobby and a favorite activity.
4. Peat pots - environmentally friendly containers for growing seedlings, made of a mixture of peat and wood fibers. They have a number of advantages:
- when transplanted into the ground, the pot decomposes without leaving any waste;
- plant roots can easily grow through the walls without being damaged during transplanting;
- seedlings can be planted directly in the pot without stressing the plants.
It should be borne in mind that pots quickly dry out and require frequent watering.
Make sure there is no mold.
5. A container with a sprayer for moisture. Using a sprayer instead of watering has a number of positive qualities:
- gentle moisturizing - water is distributed evenly without eroding the soil
- the possibility to moisturize the bottom surface of the leaves;
- ideal for seedlings - plants with fragile roots are not damaged;
- increases air humidity - especially useful for tropical plants;
- prevents rotting - excess moisture does not accumulate at the roots.
6. Using paper napkins to germinate seeds is a simple and effective way to speed up sprouting.
Qualities:
- seeds receive optimal moisture and heat;
- visualization of which seeds have germinated;
- minimal risk of rotting with proper ventilation.
Please note:
- the wipes dry out quickly and require regular moistening.
Description:
- moisten the cloth with warm water (do not pour);
- spread the seeds and cover with a second damp cloth;
- place in a cup and cover with a lid (or film) for a greenhouse effect;
- place in a warm place (+22...+26 °C);
- check daily and add water if necessary.
7. Aluminum wire to shape the bends of the trunk and branches.
8-13.
Akadama. The most popular soil for bonsai. A natural clay mineral mined in Japan. After sieving and firing it becomes hard. Depending on the amount of water contained in the granules color changes from light brown to dark brown, which allows you to determine the need for watering.
It is produced in granular form, with grain size from 1 to 25 mm. For young plants, a fine fraction is used. Akadama should be sieved to remove dust before use.
It remains stable for 2 to 3 years, then it must be replaced. Akadama equalizes pH and prevents soil acidification.
It has excellent aeration, porosity, and root permeability.
Water and nutrient retention in acadama soil is optimal,pH 5.5- 6.7. Very good for root development, especially at the bottom of the container.
Kiryuzuna is one of the best soils for bonsai. It consists of volcanic sand and clay mined in Japan. It contains silicon, magnesium, iron, aluminum, calcium, titanium, carbon and sodium.
The soil has good breathability, porosity, water holding capacity and drainage. It is able to gradually give up nutrients and trace elements. There are granules of different fractions from 1 to 6 mm. Does not decompose over time. Does not tend to compact the soil and is very stable in structure, pH 6.5- 6.8, good permeability for roots, excellent aeration.
This soil promotes a healthy and strong root system and prevents the risk of overwatering.
Especially recommended for growing conifers (pine, spruce, juniper, etc.).
Lava is used as a component of bonsai soil.
It is a unique mineral of volcanic origin with high porosity. It contributes to an excellent moisture and air exchange in the soil and is indispensable as a drainage or aeration of the soil. Thanks to its porosity is a source of macro and microelements that promote the growth of the root system of plants. It contains iron, magnesium and calcium. Prevents the formation of mold, acidification and formation of lumps in the substrate. Excellent material for bonsai design and growing mosses on the soil surface.
Coconut substrate - ecologically pure organic product of coconut peel processing.
Main characteristics:
- slow (up to 5 years) decomposition;
- high water holding capacity;
- uniform distribution of moisture in the pot;
- good air permeability;- increased soil porosity, which prevents soil from sticking;
- absence of pathogens, insects and weeds;
- pH between 5.6 and 6.8.
Sphagnum or swamp moss, is widely used in bonsai cultivation due to its unique properties.
Sphagnum has a high capacity to retain moisture. This allows plants growing in an environment containing sphagnum to have constant access to water even during periods of drought. This ability makes it a valuable element in substrates for growing plants in containers or pots.
The structure of moss promotes good soil ventilation. This allows the roots of plants to breathe better and receive the necessary amount of oxygen.
Sphagnum is a natural source of microorganisms and trace elements that contribute to the biological activity of the soil. This creates favorable conditions for the development of beneficial bacteria and fungi, which in turn keeps plants healthy and promotes better absorption of nutrients.
Moss contains the substance sphagnol, which disinfects the soil, protecting it from decay and fungal growth.
Sphagnum is used as an ingredient in soil mixtures suitable for growing a variety of plants, especially those that require high humidity and good ventilation.
As with any plant material, the use of moss requires caution so as not to upset the biological balance in the pot.
The pH level of sphagnum is around 3, so it can acidify the soil to avoid this - the amount of moss by volume in the substrate for normal plants should not exceed 10%. On the contrary, for acidifying the soil when growing acidophilic plants (azaleas, camellias, orchids and rhododendrons), the volume of sphagnum in the substrate can be as high as 30%.
Organic soil. It is important for the plant to create an environment in which the elements necessary for nutrition are present and readily available. Depending on the tree species and growing conditions, different organic components can be applied or a balanced composition containing:
- conifer bark (crushed);
- peat;
- compost;
- leafy soil.
Benefits:
- favorable environment is created for essential beneficial microbes;
- nutritional elements are readily available;
- beneficial microflora is created that stimulates plant growth;
- neutral pH;
- 100% natural product.
Application rate for soil preparation:
- for conifers up to 30%;
- for deciduous plants up to 50%
14. Bonsai fertilizers - provide the right balance of nutrients necessary for healthy growth of the plant.
Miniature trees are limited in their nutritional choices by the volume of the container, so important rules for fertilizing these plants must be understood and followed for proper vitality.
Theory. The most important nutritional elements are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K).
Nitrogen affects the growth of branches, needles and leaves, phosphorus is necessary for root growth and bud development, potassium - for photosynthesis, flowering, fruiting and preparation for the dormant period.
In addition to the basic plants need in small quantities and other elements - copper, manganese, zinc, boron, cobalt and others.
These substances bonsai can receive in the form of fertilizers: organic and mineral, complex and universal, liquid and granular. Each type of fertilizer and the way it is used has its own advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, in order not to ruin the plant and provide optimal growth conditions, it is important to study the questions: when, to whom, what, how much and how.
There can be no universal recommendation and advice here - much in the nutrition of bonsai depends on the environmental conditions (soil, light, temperature, humidity, time of year), genetics (type, species, variety) and individual characteristics (age, weight of root and above-ground parts).
General tips when choosing fertilizers for bonsai:
- organic is preferred;
- choose balanced complex fertilizers in terms of composition (N-P-K);
- do not use universal fertilizers;
- granular fertilizers act gradually, decomposing with watering;
- liquid fertilizers act immediately, giving a growth spurt and the possibility of burning roots;
- the color of needles and leaves suggest that you need to add/reduce in nutrition;
- do not use growth stimulants - the size of leaves or needles increases;
- do not fertilize during stress (after transplanting, cutting roots or branches);
- do not fertilize during disease and dormancy;
- it is better to give less than more.
15. Tweezers are an indispensable assistant when doing small works with seeds
16. A tiny seed gives you the opportunity to understand the complexity of the growing process already at the first stage, and to see what opportunities the plant has to survive and what chances you have to become a parent. If conditions are ideal, you will see the long-awaited sprout in due time and say “Happy Birthday!” to it.
However, when growing plants from seed, you should keep in mind:
Seeds do not germinate for days, weeks or months and may not germinate at the same time - this is normal in nature.
The germination of seeds depends on their viability. The fresher the seed, the higher the percentage of germination.
The viability of seeds is up to 7 years.
Most seeds require proper stratification, i.e. a period of dormancy under certain conditions, before germination. Without this, they will not germinate.
Seeds have different requirements for their germination conditions (soil, humidity, temperature, light)
Seeds make it possible to grow a plant but do not guarantee it.
17. Fertilizer baskets are indispensable for placing nutrition in the surface layer of soil, allowing:
- to have reliable information about the presence of granules;
- visually assess their condition (stage of decomposition);
- to have protection from curious feathered friends.
18. lacmus strips for determining soil acidity - pH.
Procedure:
- take about 1 tbsp. of soil
- pour it into a container and pour 3 tbsp. of clean water over it
- mix well and let stand for 5 min.
- tear off and dip 1 indicator strip into the upper layer of the solution
- pull out and compare the color of the strip with the reference scale.
Soil acidity is characterized by the pH scale (from 1 to 14):
- pH 1-6 indicates acidic soil
- pH 8-14 is alkaline
- pH 7 is considered neutral
19. A glass cup with a lid for seed preparation.
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Some important work
1. Preparation
Before planting the seeds, it is important to prepare them properly for germination
(see the label on the packet).
Many seeds, before planting, need to undergo:
- Stratification (artificial winter period to simulate natural conditions) To do this, you need to place the seeds in moist sphagnum moss and keep them in the refrigerator for 1-2 months, at a temperature of about +4 °C. Seeds should not be hermetically sealed, as they need access to air.
- Scarification, in which seeds with a hard shell, which makes germination difficult, should be lightly filed with sandpaper or a sharp knife (mechanical method).
You can wrap the seeds in a bag and alternately dip them in hot and cold water (thermal method).
The result is cracking of the seed coat and easier access to moisture inside.
2. After preparation (if it was needed), the seeds are placed in a damp cloth in a small glass cup and kept at a temperature of +20...+25 °C. To create a “greenhouse effect” saucer is covered with a transparent lid or film. Regularly check and ventilate the seeds. It is important to monitor and prevent the appearance of mold. Both overwatering and drying out should be avoided.
Seed germination time is from 2 to 8 weeks.
3. After the sprouts appear, the seeds should be carefully, with the help of tweezers transplanted into peat cups, pre-filled with a nutrient mixture consisting of:
- acadama and coconut substrate or
- sphagnum and coconut substrate.
Leave a free edge of 1.5 cm on the cup. Planting depth of 1.5 to 2 cm.
Sprinkle the seeds with the same mixture, do not tamp them down. It takes from a few days to a few weeks for sprouts to appear. The soil should be moist (but not wet) at all times.
4. After the sprouts appear, you need to transplant into a container. It takes place in the following order:
- cut off the top free edge of the peat pot and place it in the container;
- at the bottom of the container and around the pot lay drainage (lava) of about 1.5- 2 cm;
- fill the container with a 1:1 mixture of Akadama and black earth, leaving a free edge in the container of about 1.5 cm;
- fill the top layer of soil around the sprout with kiryuzuna;
- moisten the soil.
5. Watering plants is one of the most important aspects of plant care.
Requirements:
- watering is best done with a sprayer so as not to erode the soil;
- soft water (rain, snow) is preferable;
- chlorine-free tap water (tempered, filtered);
- soil watering is not done according to a schedule, but according to the actual state of the soil;
- the water should be a few degrees above ambient air;
- pH of water should be 5.5 - 6.5.
6. Lighting
Conifers require a lot of light and should be in full sun for at least 6 hours a day. Direct sunlight can cause burns to the trunk and needles, so the rays of the midday sun should be avoided.
Pine trees are not grown under indoor conditions. If the bonsai is temporarily indoors, ventilate the room regularly to ensure fresh air, optimum humidity and temperature.
If natural light is not enough, plants are illuminated with fluorescent lamps, full-spectrum LEDs or phytolamps:
- cold spectrum (6500K) - for seedlings
- daylight lamps (4100K) - universal, for all growth periods
- warm light (2700K) - enhances flowering and increases yield.
7. Pruning and shaping:
Initial pruning should be done at the same time as transplanting. Subsequent pruning can be done in the fall. Pinch and shorten new shoots (candles) by two-thirds in spring, before the needles open. Pinch the candles in two stages: first pinch the strongest candles, and a week later the weaker candles. In the fall, reduce the number of buds on each branch to two to encourage branching and thin out the needles by removing
any needles that are too long or growing downwards. Thin out more vigorously at the top of the tree and less as you move downward. This will allow light to penetrate to the lower branches and slow the growth of the top.
Wire wrapping should be done in late fall or early winter and removed after 6-8 months, checking periodically to make sure the wire is not damaging the bark.
If you have any questions related to growing plants,
please visit our web page: https://bonsai.laikastils.lv.
or SIA Laika Stils staff: laikastils@inbox.lv, tel. 29 236 940